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Materials:
12x24” 4oz weight leather panel
2 12x12” 4oz weight leather panels
Neatsfoot Oil
Waxed cord
Gum tragacanth
Barge cement glue
Popsicle sticks
Binder clips
In preparation for Atlantia's Gem Joust, I knew I wanted to enter the First Attempt competition, but was uncertain what art to attempt. I had the chance to hang out with some artisans at Revenge of the Stitch, and learned how to sew a basic saddler’s stitch from Lord Matthaeus DuPuy. I asked if he would teach me how to make a leather phone case of my own, as I admired his. Under his supervision I made the pen case, learning the process of measuring, cutting, forming, and sewing leather. Then on my own I applied those lessons to crafting a leather phone case. I learned a vast newfound appreciation for the crafting of leather goods, purchased many new tools, and enjoyed adding some new skills to my repertoire.
The clamped innermost layer
The Process:
First, I needed something to use as a form to wrap my leather around and create the general shape. I used a piece of wood, measuring the dimensions of my phone and cutting it using a bandsaw. This wooden form ensures that the final formed leather product will have the correct internal dimensions to fit the phone.
This project required three layers of leather: an innermost liner that provided the structural form of the case, a secondary colored liner, and a final exterior layer that would also create the end cap. First I measured the length and circumference of my wooden form, and then added an inch and a half to the measurement so that I could clamp the leather. I carefully traced out the dimensions on the fleshy side of the leather, and cut it out using the tip of a leather knife. I soaked the piece of leather in water for approximately 25 minutes, or until bubbles stopped surfacing from the leather. I then wrapped the leather liner around the wooden form, with the fleshy side facing out, and used two flat popsicle sticks and binder clips to clamp the leather in place around the form, as pictured. I left this to dry on the form overnight.
The next day, I removed the liner from the form, and carefully cut the excess that I had used to clamp the leather. I knew that I needed to cut the eges so that the leather just touched, but be careful not to trim too much and render the piece too small for the form. I then used a groover tool to carefully trace along the edges of the leather to be sewn. This creates a slight groove/trench that makes the next step, marking the holes for stitches, easier. Using a stitch spacer/tracing wheel, I marked evenly spaced holes on both sides inside the groover. I then used a curved awl to carefully poke holes in the leather, starting in from the top and exiting out of the side. Now prepared for sewing, I used a leather needle and braided cord to stitch the two edges together using a saddler’s stitch. This strong stitch ensures that the pieces stay joined. I used a nylon hammer to tamp down the leather along the stitching edge, which helps to smooth it down and prevent having a large bump at the seams of the project. Having sewn it up, the first liner layer was complete.
Using a measuring tape, I measured the length and circumference of the liner/form. I added an additional inch and a half or so for clamping the leather, and cut out my second piece of leather, the colored inner liner. I wanted to add a decorative touch to the part of this liner that would be visible when the end cap was removed, so I used a ruler and a scratch awl to create decorative lines across the top edge. As this is a liner, that’s all the decoration needed, so I then began soaking the leather for approximately 25 minutes. When the red leather was thoroughly soaked (and had created a lovely bucket of pinkish water) I removed it and went outside for ventilation. I applied a thin layer of barge cement on the fleshy side of the red leather, to adhere it to the innermost liner. Then I carefully wrapped the red leather around the innermost liner and form, with the fleshy side of the red leather touching the fleshy side of the innermost liner, and the skin side of the leather facing out. The barge cement quickly created a strong bond, and I clamped the wet leather onto the form using the same popsicle sticks and binder clips. I left this to dry on the form overnight.
This completed the second layer of leather, and the last liner. The final layer would be the exterior of the case. For this, I would attempt to use both leather stamps and cut outs to decorate my exterior. I also needed to think about how to connect the strap to the case, and ensure that the cap would not get lost.
First, I used a measuring tape to measure the length and circumference of the form with both layers. I added about two inches to the circumference for clamping the leather, and I added about 5mm to the length in anticipation of needing space to sew the end caps on. I cut out my piece of leather, and soaked it for approximately 25 minutes. I then wrapped it around the form and liners, taking care to center it. I left this to dry on the form overnight. I now had a blank canvas to decorate.
I began by using my groover tool and a rule to create a square box on the front of the case to contain my design. I then took a wet sponge and wet along the border of the box, where I planned to stamp. I used a pearl/fan design stamp and nylon hammer to carefully stamp a decorative pattern along the borders of my box, attempting to evenly space them. Leather stamping is high-risk, high reward ornamentation. If done correctly, the stamp produces beautiful, replicable patterns. If the hand should slip or there is a poor hammer impression on the stamp, then it is difficult to correct. I gained a new appreciation for decorative leather. I also wanted to have a design inside the box, and show off the red colored lining underneath. I used a series of hole punches and my nylon hammer to remove material in a circular design.
I then wrapped the exterior layer around the form in order to mark with a scratch awl where I wanted to cut the notches for the strap. I marked them, knowing I needed one notch for the body and one notch for the cap on both sides. I also marked where I wanted to cut the cap from the exterior body of the case.
I used a tape measure to measure approximately half inch slits in my leather, and then cut them out using a knife. I took a wet sponge, and generously wet around the cut slits. I then used popsicle sticks as a form to create the holes needed for a leather strap. I took the entire exterior layer, and wrapped it back around the form/liner layers, and clamped in place overnight.
Because this is the exterior, I wanted to be sure to properly finish all my edges. I applied gum tragacanth to the edges of the leather to be sewn, and then used a rounded piece of hardwood to rub briskly along the edge. The heat generated by rubbing along the surgery gum creates a smoother, slicker edge for leather pieces and helps the leather fibers to lay down flat.
The next day, I prepared the exterior layer for sewing, creating a groove near the edge of the leather, using a stitch spacer wheel to mark my holes, and then creating the holes in the leather using a curved awl. I then sewed the pieces together using a leather needle and braided cord, performing a saddler’s stitch to join the pieces. I used a nylon hammer to tamp down along the seams. I had a very pretty leather tube now, but still needed to craft my end caps and strap.
Next, I traced around the top and bottom of my case, and cut out the shapes. I then fit these into the ends, carefully trimming and shaping, until I made the pieces into a snug fit. This was a cautious process.
I then had to prepare to sew the end caps onto the leather. I created a groove near the edge of the leather, used a stitch spacer wheel to mark my holes, and then created the holes in the leather using a curved awl. This process was identical for my small end cap pieces. However, while the holes for all my other sewing started at the top and exited out of the side of the leather, the holes I needed to make on the exterior layer of the leather needed to go straight through, so that I could sew at an angle. I used a leather stitching punch and a hammer to create these sewing holes.
I first sewed on the bottom end cap, with the wooden form still inside of the project holding the shape. Fearful that I wouldn’t be able to extricate the wooden form block, I then removed it, seeing that the leather held its shape. I removed the exterior layer and, laying it separately, used a ruler and string to create a line across the exterior that would mark the separation of the body of the case and the cap. I then used an exacto knife to carefully cut the cap from the body of the case. I put the wooden form back in, and then put the cap back on the body of the case. I then carefully sewed the top end cap piece onto the cap. When finished, I noticed that my seam between the cap and the body was slightly askew. I put the end cap piece in water, and soaked it for approximately 25 minutes. I then put the end cap back on the form and massaged it into place. I left this to dry overnight.
The body and cap of the case were now complete. All that was left was to create the strap. I carefully cut a 22 inch long ⅓” strip of leather to serve as my strap. I used a lacing needle to grip onto the leather of the strap, and removed the popsicle sticks from my notches. Using them to form holes made lacing the strap a cinch, as it easily passed through. Having the strap go through both the cap and the body ensures that the cap cannot be separated and lost in future. I tied a knot at the end of the strap, and used my leather knife to cut tassels.
Lessons Learned:
While much of this project went cautiously smoothly, I would have handled the top cap differently knowing what I do now. The wooden form came out of the project fairly easily, and I was afraid of cutting into the leather layers underneath if I kept the exterior layer on the form when cutting the end cap. If I was to do this project over again, I would have sewn the exterior layer together, prepared and sewn both endcaps while the project was on the form, and then just carefully cut the cap from the body while trying to avoid cutting the secondary layers of leather. I think this might have resulted in a better shaping of the top cap.
I’ve also learned that having the right tool for the job makes a big difference. When I started I had no leatherworking tools to speak of; I ended up purchasing a number of them in the process of this project because a simple carving knife just couldn’t hack it. When using the proper tool, the task becomes much easier. Practice also makes perfect, and any future leatherworking projects I create will benefit from the skills I developed through this project.
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