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Pope Gregory IX Cloak Trim
I created this pattern based off of the decorated woven trim present in an illumination of Pope Gregory IX, found in “Decretals” of Pope Gregory IX, folio 168r, Modena, Italy, 1241.
For general weaving and documentation, see here
“Decretals” of Pope Gregory IX, folio 168r, Modena, Italy, 1241
Detail of woven trim
I wanted to recreate this pattern in wool, and found a similar color. I used Guntram’s Tablet Thingy, a software program, to begin drafting a pattern. After some trial and error, I was able to recreate the pattern, which I saw as a wavy set of lines with diamonds both in the center as well as on the side.
Fortunately, this pattern was also twist-neutral, meaning that it does not build up twist while weaving due to the same number of rotations forward and backward. I warped this pattern on my inkle loom, and set to weaving.
Working with Wool
This was my first time working with wool as a fiber, so there was a learning curve as I worked. I found that I could not pull my weft as tautly as I could with cotton or silk, and I had to be more mindful of my tension. Because wool is spun, there is more variation in the thickness, and occasionally one finds that individual strands of the wool thread can thin or break. Still, wool creates a strong, thick woven band that should hold up well.
References:
“Bodleian Library MS. Lat. Th. B. 4.” n.d. Digital Bodleian. Folio 168r. https://digital.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/objects/3777a6c3-ab9c-431a-9e05-76d1730c4326/surfaces/0ff26c52-e19e-4ce7-ba82-d30779d7ed02/
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